A Tiny Cabbage Full of Surprises: The History, Philosophy, and Diversity of Choux Pastry
Choux pastry, known as kue sus in Indonesia, has a long history dating back to the 16th century. Originally introduced by Catherine de Medici’s head chef, Pantarelli, the recipe was brought from Italy to France when Catherine married King Henry II. Over time, this delicate pastry underwent refinements, with chefs perfecting its airy, hollow texture and introducing a variety of fillings, such as whipped cream, custard, or even savory options. The name "choux" comes from the French word for "cabbage," as the pastry's shape resembles a small cabbage head.
Although its origins are French, kue sus has found a special place in Indonesian cuisine, evolving into a beloved dessert enjoyed by many. It is often served at celebratory events such as weddings, birthdays, and festive gatherings. In Indonesia, kue sus is not only filled with traditional custard or whipped cream but has also adapted to local flavors, incorporating durian cream, pandan custard, or chocolate-based fillings. The pastry is sometimes decorated in creative ways, reflecting the artistic flair of Indonesian bakers. Whether enjoyed as a simple treat or an elegantly presented dessert, kue sus continues to be a delightful symbol of culinary fusion between European tradition and Indonesian creativity.
Philosophically, kue sus represents something that appears empty or light on the outside but is actually full of goodness or hidden potential within. This can symbolize that a person or an object may not always seem strong or meaningful at first glance, yet within its depth or existence lies something far more valuable.
In French, kue sus is called choux à la crème, and its round shape resembles a cabbage. The word choux itself means "cabbage" in French, referring to the pastry’s resemblance to the vegetable.
Initially, kue sus was just a hollow pastry shell without filling, but over time—about two centuries later—fillings like whipped cream, pastry cream, ice cream, or custard were added to enhance its flavor. The dough is made from a mixture of water, butter, and flour, cooked until it forms a thick batter. Eggs are then added one at a time while continuously stirring until the dough no longer sticks to the pan. When baked at high temperatures, the dough puffs up, creating an airy, hollow texture.
Despite its French origins, kue sus has become an integral part of Indonesian cuisine. It can be found in bakeries, traditional markets, and even upscale restaurants throughout the country. The variations are diverse, featuring fillings such as custard, cream, or even savory ingredients like meat, catering to local tastes.
By understanding the history and preparation of kue sus, we can better appreciate the uniqueness and diversity of Indonesia’s culinary traditions.
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